Jesstours.com is a travel website that details my adventures from around the world. It’s a mixed bag of travel experiences, stories and insights. It’s also a blog that doesn’t take itself too seriously but will provide my family and friends with an outlet to keep track of my travels as well as hopefully serve as an interesting and entertaining read, with some helpful travel maps and tips for those who simply stumble across this page. Happy reading and happy travelling!
Tulum – Mexico – My Time In Tulum
Apr 2014
Before arriving in Tulum, I had heard and read nothing but great things about this town. As such, I was worried that I had built my expectations too high and therefore set myself up for disappointment. Fortunately, as it would turn out, Tulum exceeded all my expectations and became my favourite spot along the Yucatán. Let me tell you why.
Located about 130 kilometres south of Cancún, Tulum is a small, modest town with, a spectacular coastline, impressive Maya ruins, excellent local eateries and a laid back lifestyle.
It is Tulum’s magnificent rugged coastline, gorgeous beaches, green turquoise waters, lush jungle, warm Caribbean breezes and rich Maya history, that makes it the ultimate spot for those seeking sun and relaxation, as well as a dose of Maya culture.
While Tulum has certainly seen a spike in tourism in recent years, it has proudly held on to its small town charm. Sure, there has been some development, especially along the beach in the form of hotels and beach clubs, but thanks to building restrictions they are all low rise and low density.
I was absolutely thrilled to discover that Tulum’s stretches of pristine white sand were nowhere near as as built up or as busy as they were in Playa del Carmen.
In comparison Tulum’s beaches (particularly Papaya Playa) were positively dreamy and untouched, and somehow even more stunning than the others we’d already visited along the Maya Rivera. Papaya Playa’s beauty made it impossible to want to do anything other than swim and lay the days aways, however with a stack of sights and attractions nearby (more details further on), Tulum also kept Nick and I busy and on the move.
Furthermore, I was delighted to see that Tulum’s township, which stretches itself along the main highway (making it feel more like a truck stop than the centre of town), had an extremely local feel to it. Apart from a handful of souvenir shops, the rest of the businesses were small eateries, bars and convenience stores.
Also to my relief, Tulum turned out to be the perfect place for Nick and I to base ourselves for ten nights. There’s always a fear when choosing to spend such a big chuck of time somewhere new, that it could wind up being disastrous. However, with Tulum’s sand, surf and proximity to a number of Maya ruins and cenotes (natural sink holes), it couldn’t have worked out better.
Neither could our accommodation. Nick and I split our time between two hotels. Mango Tulum near the town’s centre and Papaya Playa Project, located on Tulum’s beachfront. While the two hotels were certainly very different in terms of their cost and character, both were fantastic and let us experience two distinct areas of Tulum.
Staying near the centre of town meant that we were within easy walking distance to some of Tulum’s best restaurants, while staying on the beach meant that we were footsteps away from the ocean.
While public transport, in the form of taxis and small vans (colectivos) is frequent and reliable, Nick and I decided the best way for us to get around was to hire a car. So hire a car we did! It was a great decision as it meant that we were not limited by a bus schedule and could come and go as we pleased.
Another reason why I loved Tulum so much was the food, both the quality and the affordability. Often at the end of a meal Nick and I would find ourselves saying, we would have paid triple the price or even more back in New York.
Although our diet mainly consisted of tacos, fajitas and quesadillas (plus the odd moijto), we ate at a variety of places, from street carts to more established restaurants. A few food highlights were the perfectly grilled beef tacos at El Asadero, the sizzling chicken fajitas at La Coqueta, and some ridiculously cheap and tasty quesadillas from a tiny food stand on Satelite Street.
So, as you can see Tulum really has a lot to offer, especially for those who are in search of sun, salt and sand, without the crowds of Playa del Carmen and the excessiveness of Cancún. Nick and I both agree that it has been the highlight of our trip thus far.
If you’re contemplating travelling to Tulum, do it! It is a must for any visitor to Mexico!
Note
Tulum not only refers to the town, but also to the beach and the ruins. The beach is actually located 5 kilometres east of the town centre and is accessible by foot, bike or car (taxi).
Isla Cozumel – Mexico
Mar 2014
After the buzzing scene of Playa del Carmen, Nick and I were unsure of what we were going to find on the island of Cozumel. Having been to the island some eight years before on a passing cruise ship, Nick recalled that the island had been a highly popular spot for cruise ship passengers.
Still to this day Cozumel is an extremely popular stop for cruise ships, in fact it is not uncommon to see five or so of them docked at the one time. However arriving into San Miguel (the islands main town) on a sunny Sunday afternoon by ferry, Nick and I were absolutely delighted by what we found. Surprisingly quiet streets and a far more local scene than we had anticipated.
Checking into our hostel we were reminded by the guy on reception that it was Sunday, the day of rest for many of the locals, who close their shops to go to church and spend time with their families. There was also only one cruise ship docked for the day.
After dropping off our bags Nick and I walked north along the island’s western sea wall, passing as we wandered groups of people eating, swimming, fishing and by the looks of it generally having a good time.
Having walked past several people eating juicy mangoes we stopped at a local fruit cart. A cheerful woman sat inside cutting and dicing up all kinds of colourful and exotic looking fruit. In front of the stall sat a man (the woman’s husband perhaps), on a wooden crate peeling buckets of deliciously ripe mangoes.
Fresh, peeled and sold by the bag ($1.50 each!!), we bought mangoes, mandarines, and a bag of what Nick and I call ‘mystery fruit’. We still haven’t figured out what exactly it was, but it had the crunchy texture of an apple and when cut up it looked like a gigantic cucumber without the seeds.
Famous for its coral reefs and water sports (diving, snorkelling and deep sea fishing), Cozumel is home to the world’s second largest barrier reef, as well as stunning scenery, a rocky coastline, gorgeous beaches and turquoise crystal clear waters.
Wanting to see more of the island and snorkel along Cozumel’s reef at Playa Palancar, Nick and I hired bikes and rode some 20km’s there and 20km’s back!
While Playa Palancar offered warm clear waters and a beach club (restaurant, bar, sun chairs and diving centre), Nick and I both preferred swimming along the Dzul Ha reef, located 10km’s south of San Miguel rather than Playa Palancar’s 20km’s.
Only discovering the Dzul Ha reef on the ride back to to San Miguel, I can say in all honesty that the ride to and from the Dzul Ha reef is far more leisurely than the one to Playa Palancar. The snorkelling is also better! Nick and I were truly amazed by the amount of fish, other sea life and the colourful coral formations we saw.
To access the Dzul Ha reef, one must walk through the Money Bar Beach Club. Usually I am one to avoid such places (especially with a name like Money Bar), but as I said the snorkelling is fantastic and the ambience of the beach club, unlike others along the coast, is super relaxed. There’s also a restaurant, a line or two of sun chairs, a few hammocks and that’s about it.
Like other beach clubs Money Bar does not charge for the use of their sun chairs, or other facilities, with the deal being that you buy a drink or meal from the restaurant.
While I don’t believe riding all the way to Playa Palancar is necessary, I do recommend hiring bikes as they are a great way to see and explore the island. Alternatively, you can hire a car and drive to the south eastern side of the island, where I have heard the snorkelling is phenomenal.
Apart from the spectacular snorkelling, Nick and I also enjoyed many delicious meals on Cozumel. We made a point of finding local eateries, usually tucked away in the back streets of town where the food was reliably cheap, fresh and delicious. In doing so our day would often start with tacos and end with tacos.
My favourite dish on the island however was the breaded shrimp tortas (sandwiches) from Taqueria El Sitio. Absolutely delicioso! Like other local joints not much English was spoken here, though Nick and I found that with a little gesturing, pointing and broken Spanish, all was understood. We’ve actually found this to be the case with most of our encounters.
Overall Nick and I found Isla Cozumel to be a warm and welcoming place, where the scenery is spectacular, the Coronas are ice cold and the smiles huge!
Address: 42 10th Ave Norte (btw Calle 2 & Avenida Benito Juárez)
Perfect for the budget conscious traveller, laid back Hostelito offers both dorm and private rooms.
Taqueria El Sitio
Opening Hours: 7:30am-12:30pm
Address: Calle 2 Norte
Be sure to try the shrimp tortas at this mornings only food stand.
Pastelería y Panadería Zermatt
Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 7am-8:30pm
Address: Crn Ave 5 Norte & Calle 4
Freshly baked goods, need I say more.
Address: 62 10th Ave Norte (btw Calle 2 & Avenida Benito Juárez)
Located next to Hostelito, Frenchies serves pots of golden french fries with a range of delicious toppings.
Taqueria Diaz
Address: Avenida 30 Norte (btw Calle 2 & Avenida Benito Juárez)
Local taqueria with excellent tasting tacos!
Money Bar Beach Club
Located 10k's south of San Miguel this beach bar offers guests great snorkelling and relaxed atmosphere.
Playa del Carmen – Mexico
Mar 2014
Quickly growing into one of the largest resort towns on the Mexican Caribbean, Playa del Carmen, or Playa as it is simply referred to by locals is a vibrant and bustling costal town.
While Playa’s natural beauty can not be denied (its white sandy beaches and warm waters are precisely why people flock to its shores from December to April), neither can the towns ‘touristiness’.
As soon as Nick and I stepped off the bus from Cancún, we were struck by how much Playa catered specifically towards the tourist crowd. Not only are US dollars accepted almost everywhere but there is an endless line of beach front hotels and condominiums, as well as a highly commericalised main thoroughfare called Quinta Avenida, otherwise known as 5th Ave.
The pedestrianised stretch feels more like a busy shopping mall than a street one block back from the beach. Chain stores like Zara and Forever 21 dominate the landscape as do a range of tacky souvenir shops, restaurants, bars, massage parlours and nail salons. There’s even a few Starbucks, Subways and Burger Kings dotted along the avenue too.
While a stroll along Quinta Avenida can be fun, it can also be a bit of drag as the walk almost guarantees a hundred conversations with tour operators, hair braiders, cigar sellers, all the while threading in between men holding leashed monkeys and helpless iguanas.
It’s hard to imagine that before the tourist boom Playa del Carmen was a small fishing town. Fortunately there are still traces of the towns former (and quieter) days. Only a street or two back from Quinta Avenida stand colourful, unassuming houses and small, local eateries.
From sunrise to sunset the beach, which is the real draw for tourists, is packed with people. It was a little too crowded for my liking. Sun chairs, lounges and umbrellas sit uncomfortably close to one another and take up most of the room on the sand, right up to the waters edge.
To be fair, the reason why space is tight on the sand is because the beach front is actually diminishing. Coastal erosion has resulted in a large percentage of the beach being washed away. In an effort to repair and rebuild the beach, Playa like other coastal towns along the Yucatán Peninsula has in the past undergone beach restoration projects. This involves pumping huge amounts of sand from the ocean floor offshore and depositing it along the waterline.
While there’s certainly a lack of authenticity that plagues Playa, Nick and I were glad we visited. Although we both agreed, that we needn’t have stayed for as long as we did (3 nights).
We loved Casa Freud (the hotel we booked) and the incredibly cheerful staff, despite its close proximity to an insanely loud music venue next door. We also enjoyed walking along Playa’s beach in the cool of the evening, early morning swims and mouth watering Tacos al Pastor (spit-grilled pork tacos) from Don Sirloin.
I haven’t painted the greatest picture of this town, which was was not my intention in the slightest. I can see Playa’s appeal of course, beaches, bars and booze, however it was a bit too much for me.
If you’re looking for an authentic Mexican experience look elsewhere. If you want to lounge on the beach all day, head out at night to a bar where the music thumps until the early hours of the morning, and enjoy the perks of an all inclusive holiday package, then this town is for you!
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Don Sirloin
Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 12pm-7am
Address: 10 Av (btw Calle 12 & 14)
Cheap, fast and delicious tacos. Try the marinated pork and sirloin beef, which are sliced right off the spit.
Address: 5 Ave (btw Calle 8 & 10)
Isla Mujeres – Mexico
Mar 2014
Known in Spanish as the ‘Island of Women’, Isla Mujeres is a small, idyllic island located 13 kilometres off the coast of Cancún.
For many years Isla Mujeres was a peaceful fishing village, isolated and undeveloped, that was until the tourist industry started to bring more and more travellers in search of sun and relaxation to its shores.
Today Isla Mujeres is a popular destination for sun seekers, laid back travellers and diving enthusiasts.
Its popularity is rightly deserved. The island offers visitors a slower pace of life, palm fringed long sandy beaches, pristine waters, and magnificent coral reefs. It is paradise in every sense of the word!
Although the island is only a short distance from Cancún (a 30 minute ferry ride), the difference in mood and atmosphere is striking. Unlike Cancún, which is known for its high rises and partying, Isla Mujeres is a peaceful and relaxed haven, which still retains its small town charm.
Most visitors to Isla Mujeres stay in the small town that goes by the same name, located at the northern end of the island.
It is there along the main drag Hidalgo, a few tacky tourist shops and a handful of restaurants, bars and live music venues sit. And truth be told not much else. But that’s the whole point.
The main attractions are the stunning stretches of pristine beaches, in particular Playa Norte, which runs along the northern end of the island.
Lovely big expanses of white sand allow visitors to plonk themselves for hours under the shade of a gently swaying palm tree. The only reason for one to get up is for a refreshing dip in the incredibly inviting shallow waters of the Caribbean. Total bliss!
Although Isla Mujeres is popular with day-trippers, I would definitely recommend staying on the island for at least a couple of nights. Nick and I stayed for two, though we could have easily stayed longer. Before visiting the island I had heard otherwise from friends, but I guess it depends on what you’re looking for and where you stay.
Both Nick and I were impressed with the hostel we booked. Poc-Na was great value and right on the beach. It is advised however, not to swim directly out front as the open waters can be choppy, instead it is suggested to walk two minutes up the road to the delightful Playa Norte.
The hostel was also extremely relaxed and had excellent common spaces. Poc-na is one of those places where people come for three nights and end up staying three months.
We also fell in love with the little town itself. Colourful, modest houses, friendly locals and delicious food. Although Nick and I regrettably don’t speak Spanish that didn’t deter us from making friends and eating at a number of small local eateries.
Isla Mujeres is still a working fishing village, so the seafood is reliably fresh. Our pick, the grilled fish or prawn ceviche at La Lomita. Excellento! A word of advise, don’t be afraid to eat at the smaller places. We found them to be fresh, cheap and truly delicious!
Although Nick and I were only on the island for a short amount of time we had a number of memorable experiences. One such encounter was when we stumbled upon a dancing troop of about 20 kids, who took over an entire section of road (without any sign of protest from the drivers behind), to practice as it would turn out for some sort of performance that evening. We’re still not entirely sure what it was for, but it was certainly entertaining.
Apart from unwinding on the beach, visitors to the island may head 5 kilometres south for the Isla Mujeres Turtle Farm. Since opening in the 1980s the Turtle Farm has provided continuous protection for endangered sea turtles and their breeding ground.
As the island is only 7 kilometres long, transportation mainly consists of taxi’s, golf carts and moped scooters, which are available for rent in the township.
Address: Avenida Matamoros 15
Moments away from the beach this hostel offers dorm and private rooms.
La Lomita
Address: Avendia Juárez 25
This small, local eatery serves a range of tasty seafood and chicken dishes.
Playa Norte
The island’s main beach, and one you won’t want to leave.
Isla Mujeres Turtle Farm
Opening Hours: 9am-5pm
Address: Carretera Sac Bajo
Getting There: Located 5k's south of the main town, the Isla Mujeres Turtle Farm is best reached by bike, taxi or golf cart.
Cancún – Mexico
Mar 2014
Nick and I are back on the road again, swapping New York’s snow for some sun and much needed vitamin D. Boy have we found those two things in Mexico!
We’ll actually be on the road for about six weeks travelling throughout three distinct regions of Mexico. The Yucatán Peninsula, Central Mexico (Mexico City), and Baja California. This trip will be part beach holiday, road trip and backpacking adventure.
Our first stop, Cancún.
While I must admit I was a little unsure about visiting Cancún (I had not heard great things), this universally recognised party town, completely took me by surprise.
Apart from all those things Cancún is famous for, huge high rise hotels, the Las Vegas like strip, and the annual influx of spring breakers, Cancún has a truly (and undeniably) stunning coastline, magnificently blue waters, delicious food and some of the friendliest locals I’ve met.
Fortunately, as it would turn out, our budget did not allow us to stay in the glitzy Zona Hotelera (the area where all the high rise hotels are), instead Nick and I found affordable accommodation in downtown Cancún, otherwise know as Centro, where we found a much more local scene.
Our hotel was only a short walk from the Parque de las Palapas, a large square where in the evenings a wide range of food stalls sell fresh, delicious and cheap meals. Tacos and tequila anyone?
As nightfall approaches each day, the square becomes a flurry of activity. It’s a place where the locals go to mix, unwind and eat. While children run around (until all hours it seems), locals and tourists alike enjoy tasty tacos, cheesy quesadillas, corn on the cob, sugary churros and refreshing sorbet with a surprisingly delicious topping of chili and sugar.
A rule that we followed when it came to food was to go where the locals went. It never led us astray.
The only minor downfall I would say of staying in downtown is that it’s a 15 minute bus ride away from the Zona Hotelera, where the beaches are located. However, as Nick and I discovered we were only 2 kilometres away from the nearest beach, Playa Las Perlas. This beach unlike almost all the others, was completely open to the public.
To get to most of Cancún’s beaches you must walk through the lobbies of big hotels. Sadly, these hotels are more likely to let tourists cross their lobby floor than they are locals, despite the fact that under Mexican law, everyone has the right to walk and swim on every beach in the country (except those within military compounds).
I guess that’s why Nick and I liked Playa Las Perlas so much, with its laid back and extremely local feel. For hours we enjoyed the clear, calm, shallow waters of the Caribbean Sea. We even made friends with the family sitting next to us. Despite the language barrier, we built up such a rapport with them that they even offered us sandwiches for lunch.
To me this family and their extremely kind gesture sums up the Mexican spirit – generous, warm and with a strong sense of family.
Yes, Cancún is built up (horrendously so some would say) but its coastline is stunning none the less. The weather is divine, the water is delightfully warm and crystal clear. I’ve been told however that the further south we travel, the beaches are even more stunning. This I can’t quite believe.
I’ll have to wait a week to find out, as for now Isla Mujeres awaits.
Playa Las Perlas
Local beach, located 2 kilometres from the centre of town.
Parque de las Palapas
Enjoy delicious tacos from a variety of food stands at Cancún's central square.
Pescaditos
Opening Hours: Daily 11:30am-12am
Address: Av Yaxchilán 69 (Located one street away from the main square).
Tucked away in the back streets, of downtown Cancún, Pescaditos serves a variety of fresh seafood dishes. The menu is incredibly inexpensive and delicious! I recommend the fish sticks with mayo-chipolte sauce. Tasty!
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